Sleight of Hand Cellars
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
LOCATION : Hollywood District
HOURS (as of Nov 2024): Wed-Sun, 12-6pm
TASTING FEE (as of Nov 2024): $20 (five pours, waived with $50 bottle purchase)
Hang around Washington wine long enough and you’ll hear the name “Trey Busch;” lover of music and magic, this 25-year winemaker got his start at Dunham cellars in the early 2000s and, these days, is best known for the Sleight of Hand label that famously enamored Neal Patrick Harris during his run on How I Met Your Mother (keen-eyed fans will have spotted the brand’s eye-catching label on the table in a couple of choice shots). It’s no wonder; the wines speak for themselves, mostly in the form of Pearl Jam lyrics and arcane chanting.
Sleight of Hand produces grapes from estate plantings in Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla. Each of these AVAs is represented in their outstanding Illusionist cab — which (sadly) means they have to put Columbia Valley on the label — but don’t be fooled; the Illusionist brings something unique from each of its home regions, making something greater than the sum of its parts. Sleight of Hand seems to enjoy an additional particular love affair with the Rocks district and its funky, skunky Syrahs; additionally, some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in the state (planted around 1980) go into Sleight of Hands’ Enchantress.
At the time of my last visit, the flight commenced with a dry Riesling and a lightly oaked Chardonnay (full 3-course meal of chalk, apple-pear-pineapple, finishing with slate and spice), followed by the Conjurer red blend (their flagship; see below), Archmage reserve blend (a Cab-Franc dominant blend that perfectly balances the fresh blueberry character of Washington Merlot and the herbal, green-pepper quality of Cabernet Franc), and finishing with the Illusionist reserve Cab. Also on offer — though not in the flight — are a selection of Rhone varietals. The brand is renowned for its limited production Syrahs and Grenaches, notably the Psychedelic Rocks series which garnered its own club dedicated to meaty, funky, mind-bending Syrahs.
The Conjurer red blend (left bank BDX style, 100% free-run juice, smells like a bramble patch where all the vines are made of leather) is Sleight of Hand’s flagship SKU, with Dougie Houser on the label and grocery distribution throughout the PNW. But the true star of the show is the Illusionist Cab; during your tasting don’t be surprised if the Conjurer, like its namesake, captures your attention while the Illusionist weaves the spell that will leave you wondering how the hell you woke up holding an empty magnum and a copy of Some Girls on vinyl.
Bottle prices range from $22-75 for the regular stuff, to as high as $125 for the limited production stuff. Sleight of Hand accepts but does not require reservations, and though they don’t serve food you can order from Heritage Restaurant next door and get your vittles delivered directly to the tasting room. Kids and pets are welcome inside and outside (please keep your pets off the furniture), but wine and water are the only beverages available. If you’d like to be dazzled, enchanted and prestiged into Trey Busch’s magical world, let us know in your pre-tour survey and we will arrange to visit Sleight of Hand.
Salut, and enjoy Woodinville!
